HOUSTON VOICE www.houston voice.com
AUGUST 2, 2002 17
dining kathreen lee
Cherryhurst Grill provides pleasant atmosphere,
tasty dishes with only a little room for improvement
Subtle restaurant pleases
ENSCONCED IN THE OAK-LINED
residential Cherryhurst community in the
center of Montrose, the small new neighborhood restaurant, the Cherryhurst Grill,
can easily be missed by the casual passerby Its modest black awning and large window storefront does not snare one's immediate attention like the more colorful and
familiar Domino's Pizza nearby
But upon just brief inspection, the
small, intimate and cozy atmosphere of
the Cherryhurst Grill calmly beckons
those in the mood for a warm savory meal.
Formerly Cole's Restaurant, the
Cherryhurst Grill is still managed by one
of its previous owners and maintains the
same service staff and chef. Known as
"Mama," the chef has had extensive previous experience and was part of the original kitchen staff at La Strada's. The menu
is varied without particular emphasis on
any type of cuisine, and although the
entree list is a bit meat-heavy vegetarians
still have a few salad and pasta options.
For example, fresh squash, zucchini,
asparagus, portabella mushrooms, and ricot-
ta and mozzarella cheeses are baked together within the pliant folds of pasta ribbons
and topped with a flavorful tomato basil
sauce to create a sumptuous Vegetarian
Lasagna ($10). The portions are huge, with
the corners of one large cubic serving banking the sides of the substantial serving bowl.
The only complaint was that the tomato basil sauce, while flavorful, was a bit
thin and easily ran off the lasagna — an
easily remediable factor. The dish would
have been perfect if a thicker tomato
based sauce richly coated each bite of
fresh vegetables and piquant cheese.
Fresh squash, zucchini, asparagus,
portabello mushrooms, and
ricotta and mozzarella cheeses
are baked together within the
pliant folds of pasta ribbons and
topped with a flavorful tomato
basil sauce to create a
sumptuous Vegetarian Lasagna.
CHERRYHURST GRILL OFFERS A
Create-Your-Own-Pasta where you can
choose your own adventure by matching
various basic step ingredients. To start,
you choose your pasta — linguini or penne.
Then you select from four different sauce
options: marinara, meat, vodka cream, or
basil pesto. From there, your choice of
pasta fixings include: sun dried tomatoes,
pine nuts, black olives, basil, tomatoes,
spinach, mushrooms, carrots, chicken,
tuna, shrimp, or crab fingers ($8.2^$18.75).
Although the vodka cream sauce
sounded decadently rich, I decided to
thwart the impending coronary and
The Art of Food and Intimacy
opted for the he-althier marinara. Once
again, while all the ingredients were
incredibly fresh and complemented each
other perfectly, the marinara sauce was a
bit runny and pooled at the trough of the
bowl. However, the pine nuts were roasted perfectly for a combination of its natural tastes with the musky burnt flavor.
While not on the menu, the ceviche is a
common specials item. A fresh cilantro-
guacamole blend topped a zesty mix of
diced shrimp, scallops, whitefish and
chopped onions swimming in a sharp
vinegar bath. The ceviche lacked the
tangy lime or lemon citrus flavor crucial
to eliminating fish oil, and therefore had a
lingering fishy taste, which unfortunately
slightly marred the otherwise tasty dish.
ONE DISH I WOULD PARTICULARLY
recommend is the Coconut Shrimp ($14..50).
Large shelled shrimp Eire swathed in egg,
batter and shredded coconut and lightly
fried. The preparation does not remove any
of the coconut's natural flavors, and the
fried batter provides a rough texture to
complement the smooth succulent shrimp
The dish is served with a pineapple mango
salsa for dipping, but the overly sweet sauce
jarred with the coconut flavor, and I would
advise you to just ignore its presence.
Most of the desserts are imported from
DaCapo's or Amy's Ice Cream in Austin.
However, the Cherryhurst Grill prepares
its own homemade blueberry sauce to
pour over Amy's vanilla malt ice cream. I
was excited to try a homemade specialty,
but unfortunately, the blueberry sauce
was barely noticeable and I found myself
trying to scoop larger and larger quantities of it to just get a sense of its flavor.
With its prime location in the heart of
Montrose, this neighborhood restaurant
offers its patrons a wonderful cozy atmosphere to enjoy a delightful meal (with a
few minor tweaks needed here and there)
and pleasant company.
P> Cherryhurst Grill
2100 Waugh Drive
Food: '•' -•'••' ■•
Value: 111 %
*= Stay home and eat cereal
m m = Well, if you really must
• 11: fine for all but the finnicky
llll =Worth more than a
11111 =As good as you'll
find in this city
SUNDAY BRUNCH 11:30 - 2:30
4:30PM-7:30PM • 7 DAYS A WEEK
713-521-2815 I 2815 S°uTH ©HefHeKP (off Westheimer)
STEAKS CHOPS CHICKEN FISH SHRIMP PASTA SALAD
T!he ClHERRylHURST CRill
„*-|p>} Every other night from 10-12 yw
HAPPY HOUR $$\
Every Wednesday from 4-12 ^ivrtl CPVC\P^
The only law night Happy Hour in Mfftttrvse.
hubutry Xiyht every Sunday
2100 Waugh Drive Houston, TX 77006 713.942.2100