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Houston Voice, No. 999, December 17, 1999
File 024
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Houston Voice, No. 999, December 17, 1999 - File 024. 1999-12-17. University of Houston Libraries. University of Houston Digital Library. Web. October 23, 2020. https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/223/show/213.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

(1999-12-17). Houston Voice, No. 999, December 17, 1999 - File 024. Montrose Voice. University of Houston Libraries. Retrieved from https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/223/show/213

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

Houston Voice, No. 999, December 17, 1999 - File 024, 1999-12-17, Montrose Voice, University of Houston Libraries, accessed October 23, 2020, https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/223/show/213.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

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Title Houston Voice, No. 999, December 17, 1999
Contributor
  • Hennie, Matthew A.
Publisher Window Media
Date December 17, 1999
Language English
Subject
  • LGBTQ community
  • LGBTQ people
  • Gay liberation movement
Place
  • Houston, Texas
Genre
  • newspapers
Type
  • Text
Identifier OCLC: 31485329
Collection
  • University of Houston Libraries Special Collections
  • LGBT Research Collection
  • Montrose Voice
Rights In Copyright
Note This item was digitized from materials loaned by the Gulf Coast Archive and Museum (GCAM).
Item Description
Title File 024
Transcript HOUSTON VOICE • DECEMBER 17,1999 OUT ON THE BAYOU 23 Eating Out RESTAURANT REVIEWS Plucking a plate in a comfy place b by TRAYCE D1SKIN I have to admit, 1 first stumbled into BENJY'S, an eatery serving "modern American cuisine" as an act of desperation on a recent Sunday. A friend and I found ourselves approaching the doors of several Houston standbys, only to be turned away by closed doors or private Christmas parties. We were in no position to be choosy, but I longed for a comfortable, casual, Sunday night kind of places—an establishment that invites you to reach over to your companion's plate to pluck a roasted tomato from some star dish. Who would have thought our prayers would be answered at the classy and comfy Benjy's? Nestled between a brewery pub and Italian specialty store in Rice Village, Benjy's atmosphere is minimalist and soothing with its sleek metal and Formica tables. While the downstairs bar seems lodged awkwardly in the middle of the spacious dining room. The lovely, fist-sized glass bulbs, teardrop-shaped and hung on long rods, provide a homey elegance. A basket of dry French bread and small corn muffins appeared as soon as we were seated. The muffins were fresh and boasted slivers of pepper. The humus, served as dipping sauce, didn't exactly fit with these starters, but the greaseless muffins stood alone. Our server was friendly and informed, and rattled off a list of specials that made ordering an ordeal. I opted for the special soup, Crab and Corn Bisque ($4-95), which featured seamlessly blended tomatoes, corn and crab for a velvety texture and spicy, rich taste. Benjy's 2424 Dunstan • 713-522-7602 Food: g, (ZtZ.Z-' Service: g) £) £*> <g*-> Value:g)9>9>£ Scene: &&>&&£ '■" i-5 Opt for bread, water at home OK, if you really must Fine for most Worth the drive, so live a little As good as it gets enjLjs MODERN AMERICAN CUISINt IN THE VILLAGE The House Smoked Salmon Shortstack ($7.95) offered uneven slivers of salmon between roasted corn cakes, with grapefruit and avocado on the side. Although I got the California-like mode of the dish, it was a strange combination. The corn cakes were flavorless and doughy—a dose of shredded scallions might have done the trick. The salmon was suspiciously non- fishy and added to the problem of too many different mingling tastes. The Smoked Shrimp Spring Rolls ($4.95) were nearly exquisite, with succulent, - soy-soaked jr-Tpt shrimp hidden in a n!X crusty, baked wrap. The habanero sauce drizzled in zig-zags along the plate made a piquant dip—imagine a sharp pepper laced with maple syrup and tomato. The shredded apple slaw was impressive as a garnish and included shredded radishes, zucchini and pecans, which made us wonder why this wet and crunchy salad didn't earn itself its own place on the menu. Often minimalism errs on the side of being too minimal. Such was the case with the Spinach Pizza ($7.95), which consisted of barely steamed spinach on a thin, wheat tortilla, with scattered calamata olives and conservative dollops of feta cheese. While I appreciated the freshness of the spinach, this dish was more like a salad on tortilla—a little too simple and plain for someone who at least requires the decadence of more cheese or a rich olive saute. The Asian Salad ($8.95) was huge and although the generous portions of chicken were tender, there seemed to be nothing especially Asian except for the overabundance of fried wanton noodles. The ginger-lime dressing was likable, but didn't do much for a fairly pedestrian salad. The dishes we didn't have room to try will tempt us to return. The Wild Mushroom Enchiladas with charred corn relish ($7.50) or the full dinner items such as Corn Crusted Chilean Sea Bass ($19.50) or Wood Oven roasted Duck Breast ($17.95) all sound scrumptious. One of the big turn ons of Benjy's is its ability to serve diners who want a calm, relaxing place to munch on quality fare, to those who prefer a dining experience replete with hearty entrees and any number of good wines. Then there was the two of us, one lazy Sunday night, who chose to finish a promising, if uneven, dinner with a deviously rich piece of three chocolate mousse cake, featuring a layer each of dark, milk and white chocolate on a graham cracker crust. Although Benjy's may not be perfect on every dish, the highlights are enough to make it one of the first places on my list any day of the week. nine RISTORANTE 1209 CAROLINE AT DALLAS 713.759.9323 • fax 713.759.6812 Lunch: M-F 11am - 5pm Dinner: M-Th 5pm - 9:30pm • Fri & Sat 5pm - 10pm HOME COOKING - ITALIAN STYLE" Delivery to all lofts & apartments in Downtown Houston Catering available for lunch and dinner meetings, banquet facilities, and take-out available! Plan your Christmas party with ,-To.sep rune 6 '•—'ITALIAN CI RISTORANTE B rr CHENEVEFT 6 o z m < Z n ^**-*tTAI IAN *~,RISTnR uie5 ITALIAN -J RISTORANTE Available for the Holidays Chocolates by mark Gourmet Fresh Ground Coffees for sale by the pound TOO?€E<> 1830 W. Alabama (713)522-7662 A a' constable a t JACK F. ABERCIA'S a '' ANNUAL TOY & FOOD ROUND-UP» BRING IN A CANNED GOOD » 4 OR TOY FOR A * * FREE DESSERT! ^ * * 4 NOW THRU DECEMBER 23^* * * NOW SUCWINC: LeFs Kill IB-Ur*. ( HIM secN The Boss A*v\E«.iCA'S oK.i-6.iMAl. --A.alR.OSK. fvAVSTlHV PIMMSK THEATK.S! | oi Twenty Hundred i One A Space Oddity
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