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Houston Voice, No. 1018, April 28, 2000
File 022
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Houston Voice, No. 1018, April 28, 2000 - File 022. 2000-04-28. University of Houston Libraries. University of Houston Digital Library. Web. October 19, 2019. https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1889/show/1881.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

(2000-04-28). Houston Voice, No. 1018, April 28, 2000 - File 022. Montrose Voice. University of Houston Libraries. Retrieved from https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1889/show/1881

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

Houston Voice, No. 1018, April 28, 2000 - File 022, 2000-04-28, Montrose Voice, University of Houston Libraries, accessed October 19, 2019, https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1889/show/1881.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

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Title Houston Voice, No. 1018, April 28, 2000
Contributor
  • Hennie, Matthew A.
Publisher Window Media
Date April 28, 2000
Language English
Subject
  • LGBTQ community
  • LGBTQ people
  • Gay liberation movement
Place
  • Houston, Texas
Genre
  • newspapers
Type
  • Text
Identifier OCLC: 31485329
Collection
  • University of Houston Libraries Special Collections
  • LGBT Research Collection
  • Montrose Voice
Rights In Copyright
Note This item was digitized from materials loaned by the Gulf Coast Archive and Museum (GCAM).
Item Description
Title File 022
Transcript HOUSTON VOICE • APRIL 28, 2000 OUT ON THE BAYOU 21 RESTAURANT REVIEWS Eating Out Daring dishes stand out by TRAYCE D1SKIN The raves about CAFE BEIGNET, a block outside of the Galleria between Sage and Yorktown, made me picture an upscale coffee shop with an emphasis on pastries. While the sea of cars parked in front doesn't mesh with its self-comparison to a Parisian cafe, Cafe Beignet is as close as we'll get in Houston. The slick cherry wood furniture and bold paintings inside present a stylish, yet unpretentious interior. Whafs not visible is the upstairs bakery, where staff arrives at 3 a.m. to mix, knead and punch until the downstairs counter is fully stocked with everything from breads and muffins to pastries. The complimentary breads, served in chic wire baskets, help lure you to the bakery counter on your way out. The fresh multi- grained bread was wholesome, and the corn bread moist enough to avoid crumbling when spread with pesto. I loved the idea of pesto as dipping sauce. With just a dollop on a small saucer, the olive oil drains to thej of the dish, leaving the thick, spicy mixture of nuts, cheese and basil in the center, satisfying both those who prefer to dunk their breads in a lightly flavored oil and those who prefer to slather away. The rich Tomato Soup ($3.75) is simply sublime. Served in a sun-dried tomato bread bowl, the salmon-colored base is flecked with black pepper and topped with a few strands of basil. The cream and pepper contribute as much flavor as do the tomatoes, and the bread offsets the somewhat fiery bite. For yrose who prefer less filling soup, the Duck Cafe Beignet 5381 Westheimer 713-626-9664 Food: gg>gg>g Service: g, g>g>g:£ Value: gg)g-,gi Scene: g)g)g>g> g: Opt tor bread, water al heme OK, if you really must rine for most Worth the drive, so live" li,tle eeetvt-; **900*assets Consomme ($4) offers a dark broth studded with minuscule carrots and zucchini cubes. While simple, the Cafe Salad ($3.75) features ripe tomatoes and lettuces coated with a carefully balanced balsamic vinaigrette. The attention and quality given to each dish is impressive, but what really allows Cafe Beignet to stand out is the astonishing number of original, daring dishes. The separate brunch, breakfast, lunch and dinner menus overlap only slightly—and all menus offer an array of pastas, crepes, appetizers and entrees. The Smoked Trout Ravioli ($9) exemplifies the Cafe's practice of transforming familiar ingredients and dishes into something worth raving about. A creamy mixture of smoked fish and marscapone cheese fills each tender pasta disc. The deliciously gamey aftertaste of the fish kicks in beautifully against the tender texture of the pasta, but hardly overpowers the Marinara. The Almond Crusted Chilean Sea Bass ($17.95) is more typical of the entree list. The serving of seared fish, large and thick as a copy of "War and Peace," remains flaky and savory throughout. Served on a bed of artichoke hearts and stewed tomatoes, and topped with toasted almonds and asparagus, the entire dish retains the flavor of each of its parts. Although the "Continental Fusion" descriptor is evident with dishes like Shrimp and Artichoke Martini ($8.75), Grilled Salmon Fillet and Black Pepper Fettuccini ($16.95), Wild Mushroom Risotto ($15.95) and Mediterranean Grilled Chicken ($1150), Cafe Beignet offers more than a wink to our local coast. The Gulf Bouillabaisse ($16.95; $9 for lunch portion) offers a treasure chest of shrimp, crawfish, scallops and Andouille sausage. The dark saffron broth delicately steams each seafood piece, and the sausages sizzle in the tangy tomato-infused oils. The less successful Crawfish and Saffron Gnocchi ($6.50) coats its seafood with a delicious lobster-tomato sauce, but the chewy texture and bland flavor fall short of other, more exquisite dishes. Speaking of the Gulf's culinary gifts, beignets play a greater role than a mere bakery item. The Crawfish Beignets ($15) consist of sauteed bell peppers and cucumber remoulade. The Artichoke Beignet ($13), stuffed with olives, feta cheese and herbs, gives a Mediterranean twist to this New Orleans staple. The servers are friendly and knowledgeable, and it's not unusual to see the proud and hospitable owner pouring coffee and replenishing bread baskets as he welcomes customers. The location definitely draws the Galleria area shoppers and residents, but Montrose natives would do well to venture out to experience the superb dishes n Jeffrey .' For Auto, Home & Health Your ym^ .., Community *, J^ Insurance ^^H Regina Agency! i l,to;' It m Rob Schmerler & Staff 713.661.7700 Business Insurance ■» Workers Compensation Group Health » Life Insurance & much more 6575 W. Loop South, Suite 185 Bellaire, TX 77401 Cekuratity 25 years in the Community o^- CatAofic Mass Celebrated Saturdays at 7:30pm 1307-'Hyak • 713-880-2872 iTT % lice to sign up for a weekly email preview md your address lo editorCg'houstonvnire mm visit us on-line today at www.houstonvoice.com
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