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Houston Voice, No. 998, December 10, 1999
File 024
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Houston Voice, No. 998, December 10, 1999 - File 024. 1999-12-10. University of Houston Libraries. University of Houston Digital Library. Web. October 23, 2020. https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1439/show/1429.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

(1999-12-10). Houston Voice, No. 998, December 10, 1999 - File 024. Montrose Voice. University of Houston Libraries. Retrieved from https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1439/show/1429

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

Houston Voice, No. 998, December 10, 1999 - File 024, 1999-12-10, Montrose Voice, University of Houston Libraries, accessed October 23, 2020, https://digital.lib.uh.edu/collection/montrose/item/1439/show/1429.

Disclaimer: This is a general citation for reference purposes. Please consult the most recent edition of your style manual for the proper formatting of the type of source you are citing. If the date given in the citation does not match the date on the digital item, use the more accurate date below the digital item.

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Title Houston Voice, No. 998, December 10, 1999
Contributor
  • Hennie, Matthew A.
Publisher Window Media
Date December 10, 1999
Language English
Subject
  • LGBTQ community
  • LGBTQ people
  • Gay liberation movement
Place
  • Houston, Texas
Genre
  • newspapers
Type
  • Text
Identifier OCLC: 31485329
Collection
  • University of Houston Libraries Special Collections
  • LGBT Research Collection
  • Montrose Voice
Rights In Copyright
Note This item was digitized from materials loaned by the Gulf Coast Archive and Museum (GCAM).
Item Description
Title File 024
Transcript HOUSTON VOICE • DECEMBER 10,1999 OUT ON THE BAYOU 23 Eating Out RESTAURANT REVIEWS No place to count calories by TRAYCE DISKIN A loyal, suburbanite friend once tried to convince me that if one dared to venture outside the 610 loop, you might find some of the most original and quality food this sprawling city has to offer. After putting this dubious hypothesis to the test one evening and winding up at CAFE RED ONION in Oak Forest, this theory proved truthful. Cafe Red Onion is a casual, family-run restaurant specializing in Honduran dishes, with a bit of Tex Mex thrown in. The empty restaurant can look like a "Honduran Luby's" as one friend put it. The cafeteria-style tables, and bright lights may not be as cozy as this kind of food deserves, but it was the canary yellow walls that did me in. With the gradual appearance of a bustling crowd, potent and fruity margari- tas and some wonderful food, the place transformed into a festive, neighborhood joint where one could eat for hours and enjoy. The complimentary chips are bumpy and crumbly, but the pineapple salsa would be excellent even on chunks of cardboard. To start, we ordered soup—Black Bean ($1.95) and Chicken Pepper ($1.95). The black bean soup was fairly runny. I prefer the creamy, pureed style, but the thick chunks of peppers and onions made this a lighter, seemingly healthier version. The chicken soup was not too spicy, and the texture is almost perfectly creamy—just the right viscosity. The shredded pepper and diced chicken were ample and hearty. Although an order of nachos is simply gratuitous with such a variety of choices, we indulged much to our disappointment. Using the same bumpy chips, the Black Cafe Red Onion 2041 Northwest Freeway (at 43rd Street) • 713-957-0957 Food: &>&>&&> Service: £^> ^& £ Value: g^g^ Scene: &&& iZOpt for bread, water at home OK, if you really must Fine for most . Worth the drive, so live a little . As good as it gets The empty restaurant can look like a Honduran Luby's, but the gradual appearance of a bustling crowd, potent margaritas and wonderful food transformed it into a festive, neighborhood joint. Bean and Chicken Nachos ($5.95) consisted of an inaccessible mass of fixings, all lumped together above a pungent, liquidy queso. But the Plantains and Sour Cream ($3.95) were a delight. The thick, meaty flavor mingled gently with the burnt-sugar glaze, and the sour cream countered the sweetness so perfectly that a minuscule dipping did the trick. I had the Seafood Enchiladas ($9.95) as an entree. Part of me wanted to mourn the overly greasy sauce these stewed in, but the peppery bite and twice-baked texture found me sopping up whatever liquid I could. The seafood, mostly shrimp and cod, was light and flaky, and seemed to remain intact inside the bubbling red tortillas. This dish could have been a little lighter on the cheese, but the light and fluffy rice on the side helped. The corn and pepper tossed into the rice seemed incredibly fresh, and I liked the confetti-like presentation. The black beans on the side were the same as the black bean soup I was served earlier, now masquerading as a side dish. The Mayan Chicken ($10.95) was too bready and lacked a substantial amount of meat, although the accompanying mango salsa was delicious. One friend lamented the fact that the serving of the salsa was so meager since the only way she wanted to eat this dish was to smother it in condiments. Another friend commented that it was fine as fried chicken, but she expected more. The dessert list offered a tempting Mango and Papaya Cheesecake, but unfortunately, the restaurant was out, perhaps a blessing considering the evening's calorie count. Our server recommended some other choices, but none seemed as tantalizing. It would have been nice to end with a tropical, native dish, since so much of Red Onion's strength seems to be in its Honduran dishes, as opposed to the more Tex Mex influenced ones. The restaurant we left, still filled with families, couples and office colleagues, was not the same sparse, oddly unambient one we entered. And although dishes must be selected carefully, there are many winners. NOW SHOWING: Lets Kill j COMINO ! SOON The Boss A**AE«.T*£A'S oRJafS-r-ajAV \*ivlK.I?EK. HAYSTSK.V UiNNEK. TUEATK.E.' | or Twenty Hundreds One: « Space Oddity it-f Available for the Holidays Chocolates by IHark Gourmet Fresh Ground Coffees for sale by lhe pound OP cm-met il #7*1-3: 1830 w. Alabama (713)522-7662 o._sep ITALIAN (J RISTORANTE 1209 CAROLINE AT DALLAS 713.759.9323 * fax 713.759.6812 Lunch: M-F 11am - 5pm Dinner: M-Th 5pm - 9:30pm • Fri & Sat 5pm - 10pm "HOME COOKING - ITALIAN STYLE" Delivery to all lofts & apartments in Downtown Houston Catering available for lunch and dinner meetings, banquet facilities, and take-out available! Plan your Christmas party with '•—'ITALIAN -JRISTORANTE B S-T m < Z m ^oiephii ^-*ITAIIAN -JRIflTORA Jo5eprurie5 ITALIAN *J RISTORANTE Zenith Roller Rink 8075 Cook Rood 281.575.7655 r*v js^f? i p*q
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