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iTT'--
THE CONVENT OF ST. CATHERINE. 2%x
El Sharif, and a sandy plain (called by the Bedawin "Tihamat Madyan ") slopes from them
towards the shore cliffs. The Hajj route to Mecca can be distinguished running diagonally
in a south-easterly direction across the plain, from Hakl, a pilgrim station on the sea-shore,
towards the distant mountains. The Christian Hajj road pursues its way southwards along
the widening sandy shore, till at a short distance south of the great chasm of Wady Wetir,
and just opposite a brackish fountain surrounded by dwarf palm-trees, called 'Ain en Nuweibi'a,
it turns abruptly from the sea-shore and enters the great mountain range by the picturesque
ravine, Nukb el Abweib (the little door). From this point the convent is about fifty miles
due south-west, and the camel road approaches it in as direct a line as is possible in a land of
mountains and precipices. After traversing the Wady Samghi, it issues out into a plain of
sandstone veined with granite and deoderite, then it runs through wadys and over steep
slopes to another plain, El Ghor, soon passing near to 'Ain el Hudhera, which probably
represents Hazeroth (Numbers xi. 35). In its neighbourhood there are several connected
wadys called Mawarid el Hudhera (paths to Hudhera), indicating that it was once an
important place. After crossing the Wady Murrah, the road runs along the wide plain of
Wady Sa'al. Here seyal or tulil trees (acacias) grow to a considerable size, with thin
foliage and a multitude of thorns. From them gum arabic is sometimes gathered. The road
now enters a narrow branch of Wady Sa'al, a gloomy valley shut in between high desolate
mountains of granite, veined with porphyry and slate, and here and there crested with
sandstone, all entirely destitute of vegetation ; a few scattered shrubs and herbs, however,
grow in the bottom of the valley. Emerging from this wady, the road rises over a rocky pass
to the summit of a ridge, said by Robinson to be the water-parting " between the waters
flowing to the Gulf of Suez and those running to the Gulf of 'Akabah." It presently
descends to the Wady Suweiriyeh, in which there is a well with enclosed gardens near it, called
Abu Suweiriyeh. This wady enters the broad Wady esh Sheikh (Saleh), near to a
Mohammedan wely, four thousand four hundred and seventy-nine feet above the sea,
dedicated to Neby Saleh (the prophet Saleh), who is highly revered by the Bedawin. Like
the generality of welys, it is a cubical structure covered with a dome, and whitewashed. It
contains a cenotaph with numerous votive offerings suspended above it, consisting chiefly of
tassels, shawls, ostrich effffs, camels' halters and bridles. The Tawarah Bedawin (the
Bedawin of Tur, i.e. Sinai) regard Neby Saleh as their ancestor ; he was probably, however,
the celebrated Mohammedan prophet of the same name, who at an early period was renowned
for his eloquence, and who is extolled in the Koran as one of the most venerable of patriarchs
(see Sale's Koran, chap, vii., called " El Araf." In the notes to this chapter will be found the
curious legends concerning Saleh).
Every May a great festival takes place at the shrine of Neby Saleh, accompanied with
sacrifices, feastings, and games, at which women are also present; and a smaller festival is
held immediately after the date harvest. At the close of the proceedings all present ascend to
the summit of Jebel Musa, and there offer sacrifices to Moses. From the shrine of Neby Saleh |