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42 CONSTANTINOPLE AND ITS ENVIRONS ;
is found of the city, and its fate is involved in impenetrable obscurity. Its very site was
lost in oblivion, and it was not till about a century and a half since, that travellers set
out from Smyrna to ascertain its locality. At a Turkish village some inscriptions were
discovered, on one of which was found the words KPAT1STH eYATEIPIINttN BOYAII,
which seemed to decide the situation of the ancient town; its modern Turkish name is
" Akhissar," or the White Castle.
The town is approached by a long avenue of cypress and poplars, through the vistas
of which, the domes and minarets of the mosques are seen shooting up. The background is closed by an amphitheatre of hills, circling the rich plain on which the city
stands. On entering it a busy scene presents itself, forming a strong and pleasing
contrast to what the mind anticipates in this obscure church of the Apocalypse. Stores,
merchant shops, and a busy crowd bustling through them, give it the appearance of
a thronged and opulent mart, such as perhaps Thyatira once was, when purple was its
staple commodity. It still carries on an extensive trade in cotton wool, and is still
famous for the milesia vellera fucata, which formerly conferred celebrity upon its neighbouring city.
The present population of Ak Hissar amounts to between six and seven thousand
inhabitants, of whom 1,500 are Christians of the Greek and Armenian churches, which
have each respectively a place of worship. That of the Greeks is very mean, and the
earth and numerous graves have so accumulated about it, that it seems half buried, and
is approached by a descent of many steps. This process seems to have gone on, so as to
obliterate the former Christian edifices which stood here. There exist no traces of them
above ground, but in excavating different places, the remains of masonry, to a considerable extent, are discovered, having once, according to tradition, formed the foundation of
Christian churches. Shafts of mutilated columns are often found obtruding above the soil
in cemeteries and other places—all that exist of buildings once standing on the surface.
It is probable that many of these marked fanes dedicated to Diana, whose worship was
very extensive in Asia, and not confined to Ephesus; she appears to have been the
tutelar deity of Thyatira also, and several inscriptions intimate the extent of her influence
and the devotion of her worshippers, till both yielded to a superior power, and the visionary
train of heathen deities vanished before the light of the gospel.
Among the very agreeable accessories of this place, is the abundance of pure water
with which it is supplied; perennial streams run down from the hills by which it is
surrounded,.and, meandering through the more level ground, and imparting freshness and
fertility to the meadowrs and gardens of its environs, they enter the city, conducted by
various courses formed for the purpose. This fluid, essential to the Osmanli, both as
a natural and religious want, they prize and cherish so dearly, that expedients are used
to collect it, where it is available. At Ak Hissar they have taken more than common
care ; they have constructed aqueducts consisting of more than 3000 pipes, from whence
the water issues in various channels through the streets, so that the air in the heats of
summer is constantly refreshed by the gushing streams, and the ear soothed by the
gurgling sound. This water is remarkable for its salutary qualities; it is cool, sweet, |
