| Transcript |
JAP-A-LAC—THE ORIGINAL
CARE should betak(
floors from disfigurements before
they are finished, by covering them with paper or doth.
| Should the floors becor.
n with Iyory Soap ai
remove any stains with fine
andpaper. Do not use strong
soaps, lye, potash, borax, etc.
its of Jap-a-lac necessary to finish a
new floor is of the utmost importance, and our experience
teaches us that on Oak (filled), Maple, Birch, Cherry and
Southern Pine, two coats of varnish give the best results,
but it is well to give the floor another light coat in about
six months. After having done so, you will find it will
not be necessary to re-dress or finish your floors more than
once a year, and if they do not get much wear or service,
they can go longer, but it is well to watch the finish on
your floor, and not let it wear off so as to allow the wood ,
under it to become disfigured. This is of great importance
By keeping the floor well covered with -Jap-a-lac Finish,
it preserves the natural beauty of the wood, and floors thus
treated will look well and last a lifetime.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINISHING
NEW HARD WOOD FLOORS
Oak and Parquetry Flooring, being open-grain woods,
should first be filled with a good Silex Paste Filer, so that
the pores of the wood are stuffed perfectly before applying
the finish.
Silex Filler can be obtained at any Paint Store, and is
put up in tin cans, in a thick paste form. We recommend
the Adams & Elting Filler—which is made in Chicago—or
the Wheeler Filler—which is made by the Bridgeport
Wood Finishing Co. of Bridgeport, Conn. Both of these
are standard grades of Paste Fillers and are usually kept in
stock by all Paint Dealers.
The Filler should be thinned down with Turpentine to
about the consistency of a varnish. After thinning same, add
about one pint of the Natural, or Clear JAP-A-LAC to a
gallon of the mixture, and apply to the floor in the same
manner as varnish or paint. After allowing it to set, or
dry flat (which takes about fifteen or twenty minutes), it
12
Beware of Imitations and Substitutes
should be wiped off the surface of the floor with Tow or
Fine Excelsior, rubbing same across the grain of the wood,
stuffing up the pores completely, thus preventing the finishing coats of varnish from sinking into the pores. The floor
should be wiped clean and allowed from twenty-four to
forty-eight hours for the Filler to dry, or harden, before
applying the first coat of varnish.
The Filler having been applied according to the foregoing
directions, and being thoroughly dry, the surface should now
be smoothed well with No. l/z_ Sandpaper, rubbing with the
1 --'--ssible, after which remove
ughly.
The Floor is now ready for the first coat of Varnish,
and the best for this purpose is Natural JAP-A-LAC,
which should be applied with a four or five inch flat
bristle brush, varnishing the boards the way they run, and
covering only four or five boards at a time, thus avoiding
laps or brush marks.
The first coat should be brushed out thin, producing a
foundation, or surface for your finishing coats. Alter
allowing the first coat about twenty-four hours to harden,
sandpaper lightly with No. o Sandpaper in order to remove
any rough places arising from dust or dirt settling in the
varnish before it sets hard. After sandpapering same, dust
carefully and apply another coat in the same manner as the
first, although this coat may be put on a little heavier. If
" JAP-A-LAC is used, the last coat will dry with a beautiful,
smooth, soft lustre, which is characteristic only of Jap-a-lac.
[ TREATMENT OF OLD HARD WOOD FLOORS |
Where the old finish on floors has worn off and disfigured
the original beauty of the floor, it is well to engage the
services of a practical hard wood finisher in order that he may
remove all the old finish
sandpapering tl
floor to get it in
good condition ^
for |
